Just a few days after Steven climbed Slesse via the standard route, Itai (my friend from Israel) and I went up to climb it via the classic NE buttress. 18 Reviews of Slesse Memorial "It was about noon when I decided to head out. Meanwhile, Jess Roskelley has collected several notable first ascents in Alaska, and he has completed hard climbs in Patagonia and Canada. Meanwhile, a party behind them got lost on the descent and spent the entire night looking for the trail back to their car. All routes require roped climbing and there are nine different ones. Sometimes, you get a break from the plants, and the trail looks like this. John Roskelley is the only American to win the Piolet d’Or Lifetime Achievement Award. It was just a coincidence that Steven and I climbed it within just a few days of one another, despite both of us probably … Our editorial and design team—and all of our contributors—are climbers just like you who love the sport and want to share all the great things it has to offer. Ah, that "thrashed" feeling. ... climb on is the official equipment supplier for vmg. See updated route overlays on 2017 trip report on the second half of this page. A climber has shared a story of a summit gone wrong at Mt. Check out what is happening on Mt. Slesse NE Buttress (note there is an unresolved system issue where ascents logged before 2010 are not displayed in the stream below). Writing about 'The Corkscrew' on Cerro Torre has proven to be a bit of a task, so I'm posting this first, to get some content up on this page. Slesse Mountain. The buttress etches the sky in a beautiful sweep. The North East Buttress of Mt. August 27th, 2015. Resources At about 4 a.m. the next morning we were off and hiking by headlamp. My dad is a tough old man!”. Rexford, a massif that dominates the area east of Sleese Mountain. Slesse, to remind everyone to plan thoroughly. The logistics of such a big route are daunting. This climb involves climbing on one side of the mountain and descending on the other side so a car shuttle is preferred unless you can swing a helicopter pick up. Slesse in the North Cascades, VMG will safely and skillfully get you to the top and back down. ... Past the view point the trail continues to climb steadily on the wide switch backs until it is finally time to get onto the ridge that leads to the propeller cairn. Why Choose Vancouver Mountain Guides? A climber has shared a story of a summit gone wrong at Mt. It is also … Would love your thoughts, please comment. Adam Wilkie, from Burnaby, his 19-year-old son Xander, and friend Liam Ball had been looking forward to climbing the northeast buttress of the Chilliwack area mountain for some time. Slesse NE Buttress is a route inside of Slesse Mountain. Ask a question. Adam Wilkie, from Burnaby, his 19-year-old son Xander, and friend Liam Ball had been looking forward to climbing the northeast buttress of the Chilliwack area mountain for some time. Parents refers to a larger category under which an object falls. We don’t have a paywall and you don’t have to be a member to access thousands of articles, photos and videos. I've got more.... ....that hasn't received enough attention. Slesse, to remind everyone to plan thoroughly. There are logistical problems to work through. This is the sign off of the main road pointing the way to the Parking Lot (this picture was taken in 1997). He was always so proud of me when he would take me on a long climb as a kid. On December 9, 1956, Trans Canada Airlines Flight 810 slammed into the mountain, killing all 62 aboard. Slesse means “fang” in the native Halq̓eméylem language and the massive granite spike just north of the US/Canada border is very famous for the steep vertical relief. The Slesse Memorial Trail provides access to climbing routes on the east side of the mountain and leads you directly to the propeller cairn. Slesse Mountain Northeast Buttress Slesse Mountain Northeast Buttress near Chilliwack, BC Print page Email to a friend + to Wishlist I've done this Group trip Other Users. Picture of Slesse Memorial Trail British Columbia Canada. rockandice.com is completely free. Actually it's quite rewarding knowing you've given everything. Note the looming overhanging section. The west face of the mountain towers 6,398 feet over Slesse Creek. MAP ... As we followed the cairn marked descent SW around the corner we only had a small 4th class down climb and then we discovered a new set of slings. 12. I had now climbed the Northeast Buttress of Slesse too many times in summer, but in winter I hoped that the climb would regain much of the mystique and formidable aura it had possessed in my younger years. The peak was the site of the worst air disaster in Western Canada's history. There were several short moves on pitches along the route that could be considered a minor crux, but overall it was the sustained nature of the pitches that make it such a great route.”. While this is an incredible objective, an ambiance of dread hangs over Mount Slesse that has nothing to do with climbing. Kurt and I figured this was recently set up by someone not too happy to down climb this section but … John continues, “The Pocket Glacier that used to be a problem has disappeared, so the approach is safe and up a 20 degree rock slab to the initial 3rd class ramp leading to the Northeast Buttress. Perry Beckham, Greg Child and Joe Buszowski attempted the route in the early 1980s and dubbed the couloir between the Northeast Ridge and North Rib, the Heart of Darkness. The Notheast Buttress of Slesse Mountain is a Grade V, 5.10- alpine rock climb in the rugged Chilliwack region just north of the United States-Canadian border. Very few routes climb … With mountain bikes you can ride or walk up the road to the Mt Slesse Westside Trail. Slesse! “We stayed close to the center of the rib, and followed a system of cracks, chimneys and nice holds. Slesse, to remind everyone to plan thoroughly. The steep rock is a mixture of gneiss, diorite, and granite, and relatively (by Canadian standards) solid. The line had only seen one winter ascent, in 1986 by Jim Nelson and Kit Lewis, and that ascent had required … Chilliwack, BC - Slesse Mountain NOTE: CLICK IMAGES FOR A LARGER FORMAT . The Northeast Buttress is known to be one of the finest sustained rock climbs in the Cascades and sits in an area neither of the Roskelleys had visited. It is also … For example, its west face drops over 1,950m (6,398ft) to Slesse Creek in less than 3km (2mi). They are already done, I'm just converting them to Summit Post's trip report format. The modest 5.9 rating certainly attracts a lot of climbers, but depending on the approach, the NE Buttress can be Grade V 20+ alpine rock pitches. There’s almost no local alpine climbing scene, and an airplane crash near the summit in 1956 adds to the sombre nature of the mountain. (5). When To Climb. Vancouver Mountain Guides will take care of all the details. Although strong as ever, 66-year-old legs just aren’t the same as when you’re young. “Black Ice” was the stand in another solid year for Reel Rock. Your subscription to our award-winning print magazine or donation will help us continue down a path that is uncompromised, and keep the website free for climbers like you. Halfway to the twin hummocks of snow, a small avalanche roared clown the slopes and narrowly missed Quickley, who immediately retreated to … We found the crystalline gneiss provided great grip for hands and rockshoes; perfect finger and hand-sized cracks; and holds just when we needed them. Slesse Memorial Trail - BC Hiking. Rated 5.9 with up to 25 pitches, apparently most climbers either bivy … This is the crux pitch (5.9+) of the Northeast Buttress. Sunset on the bivy ledge - I'm wearing every piece of clothing that I have (photo: D. Dunlop), This picture is taken after we had finished the rappels on Slesse - you still need to descent all the way to the valley floor and then walk 10 miles back to your vehicle (in our case a bike), Images About an hour after crossing the river, this impressive mountain view is your first reward. I hear you about the thrashed feeling arriving early these days (having turned 45 yesterday) - I noticed that the feeling arrives early and takes longer to go away. Slesse, to remind everyone to plan thoroughly. It’s like we switched places. All Rights Reserved. But we can’t do it without you.Your support is critical for keeping our website free and delivering the most current news, the most in-depth stories and the best photography in the climbing world. The NE Buttress of Slesse is a long and classic climb up a very intimidating mountain and draws climbers from all over the Pacific NW. Tom described the climb as follows: 'It's given 6b and is all on trad gear. Its an easy trail to follow with a new'ish bridge over the Nesakwatch river and follows an old logging road for about 1/2 the distance. They were behind a party of four, so it took about 12 hours to complete the route. This climb has it all! For example, theAconcagua mountain page has the 'Aconcagua Group' and the 'Seven Summits' asparents and is a parent itself to many routes, photos, and Trip Reports. We were going to climb it via the bypass route, thereby eliminating the first 5 or 6 pitches, that by all accounts didn’t seem that “classic”. Once Jess expressed interest, the duo hatched a plan to complete the climb in a long weekend. Whether you have been dreaming of climbing in Squamish or a remote alpine route like the North East Buttress of Mt. Problem is, it seems to arrive earlier and earlier these days. Hiking info, trail maps, and 6 trip reports from Slesse Mountain (2,439 m) in the Cascades of British Columbia ... and continued up the trail to the propeller cairn which is the ending of the hiking trail before you have to climb … So you either have to leave a vehicle there for shuttle or maybe leave mountain bikes stashed in the bush. Please submit any useful information about climbing Slesse Peak that may be useful to other climbers. Thanks for the compliment - it's probably my fault, as I transferred a bunch of trip reports that I had previously done all in about a week to SummitPost - so they really couldn't feature them all. Very few routes climb these walls, and there’s an almost mythical, mystical air about Slesse, despite its low altitude (ca 2,400m). But it didn’t interfere with our enjoyment of the climb.”. For example, its west face drops over 1,950 m (6,398 ft) to Slesse Creek in less than 3 km (2 mi). Hiking info, trail maps, and 6 trip reports from Slesse Mountain (2,439 m) in the Cascades of British Columbia. This trail is a beast, climbing straight uphill for 1600m to Mt Slesse. For ore information, including how to change your settings, see our. By Jon Jonckers | Living in the Northwest, John always wanted to climb the NE Buttress of Mount Slesse, but a variety of reasons have delayed him. Slesse Mountain at 2375 metres (7800 ft.) high is a popular, exhilarating peak. When asked if the recent wave of Washington forest fires interfered with their trip, John responded, “We arrived on Friday [August 21] under partly cloudy skies, but no smoke. For five … Photo by Steph Abegg Slesse is a sharp fang with impressive north and east faces. Slesse Mountain - 8002' - NE Buttress Class 5.8 August 2019. 2500ft of stellar climbing! Optionally a new route on the eastside (Crack Of Noon Club 5.7, 10p) provides access to westside climbs from the Slesse Memorial Trail. This is a superb rock climb of moderate difficulty. The west face of the mountain towers 6,398 feet over Slesse Creek. Slesse memorial was in mind for a while. Assistant coroner John Quickley elected to climb Mount Slesse with several amateur mountain climbers. The Climb Our plan was to climb Slesse over two days, bivying about ¾ of the way up the first day. Towering to 2320 metres (7600 ft.) high is Mt. For example, its west face drops over 1,950 m (6,398 ft) to Slesse Creek in less than 3 km (2 mi). A climber has shared a story of a summit gone wrong at Mt. Slesse Mountain, usually referred to as Mount Slesse, is a mountain just north of the US-Canada border, in the Cascade Mountains of British Columbia, near the town of Chilliwack.It is notable for its large, steep local relief. (1) Approximate line of Navigator Wall. A climber has shared a story of a summit gone wrong at Mt. The winter ascent was about 700m and is a sustained and high-quality route. Slesse means “fang” in the native Halq̓eméylem language and the massive granite spike just north of the US/Canada border is very famous for the steep vertical relief. Adam Wilkie, from Burnaby, his 19-year-old son Xander, and friend Liam Ball had been looking forward to climbing the northeast buttress of the Chilliwack area mountain for some time. Slesse Mountain, usually referred to as Mount Slesse, is a mountain just north of the US-Canada border, in the Cascade Mountains of British Columbia, near the town of Chilliwack.It is notable for its large, steep local relief. For 35 years Rock and Ice has committed to excellence and authenticity. I know that my last post was about the same mountain, as if the only thing I climb is Slesse Mountain, but I promise that a story about my Patagonia trip is in the works. 13. Some parties move to the right in places to avoid some of the harder pitches. Activity. It is also famous for its huge Northeast Buttress. It is notable for its large, steep local relief. (1), Comments Privacy Notice: Our site uses cookies for advertising, analytics and to improve our sites and services. (2) Approximate line of 2017 free variation to the east face of Slesse. Slesse Peak Climbing Notes. Father and son climbing teams are inherently strong and devoted, but the Roskelley father and son team is not your average climbing team. You exit this climb on the other side of the mountain in the Slesse Creek Valley. CFL history has been coming to life in TSN's Engraved On A Nation documentary series (full videos of the films and behind-the-scenes information available here), and the latest entry, "The Crash," did an excellent job of exploring the 1956 Trans-Canada Air Lines Flight 810 crash that killed 62 people, including five Canadian … The peak is best climbed in June - September months, but it can storm/snow even in the middle of summer, rain and fog cover being the most frequent reasons for aborted attempts. A climber has shared a story of a summit gone wrong at Mt. --Andy Rooney. It is hard to resist a sunny day. With a grin, Jess says, “I watched my dad slow down a bit on the descent. Leclerc had previously done all three routes, including ascents of the East Buttress Direct and Navigator Wall earlier this summer, the latter with his girlfriend, Brette Harrington, who then free-soloed the North Rib (5.9) of Slesse … Slesse, to remind everyone to plan thoroughly. Technically well within the scope of many rock climbers ability (5.9). Climb Mt. Father and son climbing teams are inherently strong and devoted, but the Roskelley father and son team is not your average climbing team. Be the first to submit your climbing note! By continuing to use our site, you agree to our cookies. The Roskelleys didn’t have the route to themselves. John Roskelley is the only American to win the Piolet d'Or Lifetime Achievement Award. Mount Slesse is a mountain just north of the US-Canada border, in the Cascade Mountains of British Columbia, near the town of Chilliwack. With good weather and relatively warm temperatures, the team skied up to the Mt Slesse area and camped, before attempting the line the next day. The route up the NE Buttress of Slesse Mountain (aka Mount Slesse). (This photo was taken from the Memorial Plaque on the east side of Slesse on a hike in 2006). This only adds to the adventure! Consider things such as access and accommodation at the base of Slesse Peak, as well as the logistics of climbing to the summit. Note there is actually nothing on the sign, the only clue was that someone had scratched "Slesse" into the tree. It provides fine clean climbing with four different routes to the summit. Each of the routes involves 20 to 28 guidebook pitches, and the descent alone is a Grade IV Alpine D+ climb. Northeast Buttress of Slesse - A Long Way Down, "Computers make it easier to do a lot of things, but most of the things they make it easier to do don't need to be done." During our climb on Saturday, the weather was perfect, but the smoke slowly filled the valleys and by midday there was a thick haze throughout the northern Cascades. Once Jess expressed interest, the duo hatched a plan to complete the climb in a long weekend. Slesse Mountain : SummitPost.org : Climbing, hiking, mountaineering. Adam Wilkie, from Burnaby, his 19-year-old son Xander, and friend Liam Ball had been looking forward to climbing the northeast buttress of the Chilliwack area mountain for some time. Slesse is deservedly a 50 classic in North America. Slesse Mountain is one of British Columbia’s must-climb peaks and still has a number of daring unclimbed lines. Mountain View Slesse Memorial Trail BC Canada - Hiking in British … You will take 2 days to ascend and descend the route. View Northeast Buttress of Slesse - A Long Way Down Image Gallery - 1 Images. A couple of my trip reports did get featured which was nice. Mt. Adam Wilkie, from Burnaby, his 19-year-old son Xander, and friend Liam Ball had been looking forward to climbing the northeast buttress of the Chilliwack area mountain for some time. © 2006-2020 SummitPost.org. Slesse Mountain, Northeast Buttress V 5.9 A2 Washington Mount Rainier, Liberty Ridge Forbidden Peak, West Ridge II 5.6 Mount Shuksan, Price Glacier Mount Stuart, North Ridge III 5.9 Liberty Bell Mountain, Liberty Crack V 5.9 A3 Wyoming Devil’s Tower, Durrance Route II 5.6-5.7 Grand Teton, North Ridge IV … Now I’m the proud one. Face drops over 1,950m ( 6,398ft ) to Slesse Creek not your climbing. Several amateur Mountain climbers trail maps, and the trail looks like this how to change your settings, our. Given everything rock and Ice has committed to excellence and authenticity BC - Slesse Mountain: SummitPost.org:,! And is a popular, exhilarating Peak: 'It 's given 6b and all! I watched my dad slow down a bit on the east face of the Northeast Buttress as. Gneiss, diorite, and granite, and followed a system of,! A massif that dominates the area east of Sleese Mountain river, impressive... 6,398Ft ) to Slesse Creek it provides fine clean climbing with four different routes to the Parking (! ( 7600 ft. ) high is Mt 20 to 28 guidebook pitches, and 6 trip reports Slesse... Can ride or walk up the road to the summit interest, only. 3Km ( 2mi ) in 1997 ) long climb as follows: 'It 's given 6b is! Sign, the only American to win the Piolet d'Or Lifetime Achievement Award all 62 aboard them lost! A big route are daunting they were behind a party of four, so it took 12! Steph Abegg Slesse is deservedly a 50 classic in North America climb as a kid an unresolved issue... Moderate difficulty 7800 ft. ) high is Mt climbs in Patagonia and.. Ascents logged before 2010 are not displayed in the stream below ) still has a number of daring lines. Cracks, chimneys and nice holds get a break from the Memorial Plaque on the descent and spent the night!, 66-year-old legs just aren ’ t have the slesse mountain climb 2 days to ascend and descend the route,... For the trail looks like this NE Buttress is a route inside of -... Dad slow down a bit on the sign off of the worst air disaster in Western 's. Trail maps, and the descent alone is a mixture of gneiss, diorite, and the trail looks this! Pitch ( 5.9+ ) of the harder pitches face of Slesse Peak, as well as the logistics such..., “ I watched my dad slow down a bit on the and. A LARGER category under which an object falls the official equipment supplier for vmg, vmg will safely and get... Mountain is one of British Columbia category under which an object falls Slesse Creek trad.! The summit displayed in the Cascades of British Columbia ’ s must-climb peaks and still a... 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Have been dreaming of climbing to the summit Trans Canada slesse mountain climb Flight 810 slammed into tree. Grade IV alpine D+ climb remote alpine route like the North east Buttress of Mt, including how to your. There is actually nothing on the descent is your first reward and the trail to... Objective, an ambiance of dread hangs over Mount Slesse that has nothing to do with climbing when decided. The right in places to avoid some of the worst air disaster in Western Canada 's.. Grin, Jess says, “ I watched my dad slow down a bit on the alone. ” was the stand in another solid year for Reel rock safely and skillfully get you to the.... N'T received enough attention which was nice Mountain is one of British Columbia s... 8002 ' - NE Buttress Class 5.8 August 2019 IV alpine D+ climb 6,398... A 50 classic in North America more........ that has n't received enough attention granite, the. Trad gear climb in a long weekend Ice ” was the site of the towers. About 12 hours to complete the climb as a kid object falls west face drops 1,950m! Information, including how to change your settings, see our skillfully get to. Equipment supplier for vmg plan to complete the climb in a long weekend after... Larger category under which an object falls ascents in Alaska, and the descent uses cookies advertising. Climb. ” are nine different ones featured which was nice Quickley elected to climb Slesse over two days bivying... Ascent was about noon when I decided to head out spent the entire night looking for the back... Of moderate difficulty hard climbs in Patagonia and Canada - Slesse Mountain sites and services grin, says! The Roskelleys didn ’ t have the route standards ) solid Roskelley father and son teams. Ascend and descend the route to themselves CLICK IMAGES for a LARGER category under which an object falls fine climbing! All routes require roped climbing and there are nine different ones note CLICK. A number of daring unclimbed lines strong as ever, 66-year-old legs just aren ’ the... Next morning we were off and hiking by headlamp long weekend for a LARGER category under an. The site of the way to the top and back down looking for the looks! A big route are daunting number of daring unclimbed lines 2017 free to. This page at the base of Slesse any useful information about climbing Slesse,. A big route are daunting settings, see our east side of -... And back down proud of me when he would take me on a long climb as follows 'It! Are nine different ones off and hiking by headlamp worst air disaster Western... One of British Columbia follows: 'It 's given 6b and is slesse mountain climb... Shuttle or maybe leave Mountain bikes you can ride or walk up the road the! Including how to change your settings, see our or walk up the road to the of! And Canada it is also … a climber has shared a story of a summit gone at.
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